Hot steamed rolled pancakes and grilled herring - flavors of Hoang Mai coastal town

This culinary experience embodies the rich and authentic taste of the coastal residents of Hoang Mai.

Located about 200km south of Hanoi, Con Temple is situated along the Mai Giang River in Quynh Phuong ward, Hoang Mai town, Nghe An province. It is a famous site in Nghe An that attracts numerous visitors every year.

The early months of the year mark the time when fishermen in Hoang Mai are busy with the herring fishing season. This is when herring is abundant and nutritious, making it the most sought-after time of the year. The small fishing boats of local fishermen, after a night of casting nets along the shore, can yield 2-3 tons of herring, providing them with an income of tens of millions of Vietnamese dong.

Freshly caught herring, once transported to the shore, is purchased by traders who sell them to provinces such as Thanh Hoa, Ninh Binh, and partly to local markets, Vinh city, and districts within Nghe An province. Retailers typically sell fresh herring or charcoal-grilled herring, depending on the preferences of the local residents.

For decades, grilled herring at Con Temple has become a specialty of the coastal area in Hoang Mai, attracting visitors eager to savor the unique taste. The herring selected for grilling is usually freshly caught, still vibrant. After thorough cleaning, the fish is grilled directly on a charcoal stove to serve the customers. Herring from the coastal waters of Hoang Mai is known for its rich, fragrant, and sweet meat, packed with nutrients, making it not only delicious but also affordable, thus appealing to many.

The charcoal stove for grilling herring is simple, consisting of an old aluminum basin filled with red charcoal. A homemade grill is placed on top of the basin to hold the fish. Flipping each herring on the charcoal stove, Ms. Nguyen Thi Quyet, an experienced herring griller at Con Temple, shared that this year, with an influx of visitors to Con Temple during the Lunar New Year, she grills about 50-70kg of herring daily. To ensure the fish is delicious, she must sit by the stove, adjusting the charcoal to match and flipping the fish regularly. The most crucial aspect is recognizing the perfect moment when the fish is fully cooked, meeting the standards.

After being grilled, the herring has a captivating golden color and a charming aroma. Grilled herring is often served with fresh vegetables, fig leaves and hot steamed rolled pancakes. The plate of freshly rolled pancakes is still hot, displayed alongside the plate of sizzling herring, a sight that delights the diners with just a glance. The dipping sauce is pure fish sauce, mixed with a few drops of lime and slices of fresh chili or can be shrimp paste. The dish of grilled herring and hot steamed rolled pancakes, when eaten and savored, clearly captures the authentic taste of the coastal hometown.

Ms. Nguyen Hoang Ha, a visitor from Thanh Hoa province, shared: "Every year, from the 10th to the 15th day of the 1st lunar month, my family often visits Con Temple. After the worship ceremony, the whole family usually chooses the dish of hot steamed rolled pancakes with grilled herring to enjoy because it is unique, delicious and reasonably priced."

There are many places like this in the Con Temple area that serve grilled herring with hot steamed rolled pancakes. Steamed rolled pancakes are served to visitors at the price of VND 20,000 per plate, while grilled herring is sold at VND 2,000 each. Additionally, many visitors also place orders for grilled herring to take away.

The dish of grilled herring with hot steamed rolled pancakes has become a cuisine with rich and authentic flavors, reflecting the culinary culture of the land and people in the coastal town of Hoang Mai.